Kitchen stuff to bring

• Ziploc freezer bags (the heavy ones; all sizes are handy)
• Water bottle or two
• Decent paring knife and a bigger kitchen knife, if you care about cooking.
• Travel coffee press, if you’re an addict and/or coffee snob (only thing you can get in the hinterlands is instant coffee. Buy beans in Lusaka before you get posted!)
• Spices (I brought chili powder, cumin, green chili, and an assortment a friend gave me. Totally worth it to make food that tastes like home. Cinnamon, black pepper and other basics are available here.)
• Water-bottle drink mixes (These were a hot commodity during training. I brought Kool-Aid along with powdered stevia from the health food store—600 servings in one tiny bottle.)
• Your favorite candy, especially sugarless gum if you’re a fan. You’ll start getting packages, but those snacks could save your bacon during those first few weeks. Also, share and make instant friends with your host family.

Seeds. You can buy seeds for basics like tomato, onion, and greens, but we had family send us broccoli, cilantro, basil, lettuce, mint.

Market

Before we left, a heap of tomatoes was going for one pin, about 35 cents, and a bundle of greens for 500 kwacha, around 20 cents. If you spend "a lot," usually the lady will throw in an mbasela, or a gift, which is generally a small, funky tomato. If you ask for an mbasela, you will get the gift plus a big laugh from a lady who is surprised you know to ask for it.

Other random stuff you should bring

• Some American cash, but not a lot (PC will not store it for you in their safe, so don’t bring more than you can afford to lose.)
• A ton of passport photos (bring more than PC requires if you can make them yourself for cheap. They don’t have to be “official” passport ones, just close enough. Carry them with you always, or you’ll end up having to get more even if you have a ton in your luggage. I speak from experience here.)

• shortwave radio (If you have a solar or windup one, so much the better)
• MP3 player, fully loaded (lord, did I get sick of my music on that first 10-hour bus trip)
• Extra headphones; speakers (mine run off the MP3 player, which is then charged by the solio—pretty swell)
• map of the world and/or USA and/or inflatable globe (I just bought a small US road atlas, too, for dreaming of future road trips)
• photos (the more the better! Like another PCV, I would recommend arranging them into “share with host family” and “private” albums. Sometimes you just don’t want to explain.)
• card games. A friend sent us “Quiddler,” sort of a card version of Scrabble that is super fun.
• Frisbee and other outdoor toys (great way to bond with the kids before you can talk to them)
• A couple of books, though the offices and province houses have tons of fairly decent books, and your friends will probably send you some. You’ll have limited access during training, but afterwards, no problem. I brought a yoga book and a writing book. The best thing ever, though, was the massive “Encyclopedia of Country Living” that a friend sent—I have referenced it hundreds of times for recipes and farm-related advice. Most of the PC houses have DVDs, too. Yee-haw!
• Emergency sewing kit (at bare minimum, a needle and thread plus a big handful of safety pins, maybe a couple of extra buttons)
• Craft supplies and instructions, if you’re the type (baby-weight acrylic yarn is plentiful here in almost every color, plus small knitting needles and crochet hooks—but that’s it.) I have raved about knitting here before. A hobby is a sanity saver.
  

These kids

The thing about them is, they're so darn happy. Or are they always laughing at us? It's hard to tell.

Other stuff you should bring, volume 1

• Solio charger with all the tips (you’ll probably buy a cell phone here)
• digital camera plus extra memory cards
• thumb drive. I also have one that I can use to plug memory cards directly into a computer. Useful, plus saves camera battery life.
• LED headlamp with tons of extra batteries. Spend the money on an LED one, seriously.
• Scissors
• Duct tape
• Luggage locks
• Carabiners: so handy!
  
• Pocket knife or leatherman tool
  
• Pens and mechanical pencils, sharpies
• Rubber bands and paper clips (if you’re geeky about being organized like I am)
• address book
• some American postage. You will occasionally run into somebody traveling to the US who will carry letters for you.
• calendar
  
• double-sized fitted sheet (only place I’ve seen them for sale is the thrift piles, where they’re used. I am not jazzed about sleeping on used sheets, though I dig the 1970s patterns. PC issued us twin sheets when we arrived, but no fitted sheets.)
• Thermarest (not essential but is nice for site visits and travel. If you have it, bring the chair-insert thingie for extra seating.)
• Sleeping bag (also not essential but nice for travel. We use an old down comforter, which was great on our bed and for travel except when we went to different places for both site visits. But the PC-issued blankets would have been enough, probably.)
• Tent (PC will advise you to bring one, but it’s not necessary since enough people have them that you can borrow, and usually when you visit somebody you can crash on their floor or in their insaka. However, if you’re a backpacking enthusiast, bring it.)
• money belt, and please use it, will you? One of our friends got a huge ton of money stolen, and that will ruin your day.
  

Jump rope

Gennie sent a jump rope. Emmanuel had no idea how to jump rope, but he had fun trying.

Health and beauty!

What you can buy in Zambia: q-tips, toothpaste, shampoo: most of the basics, just probably not the brands you're used to.

Bring:

• towel (at PST they will give you a big piece of cloth and tell you to be Zambian and dry off with it; alas, chitenje fabric does not absorb water)
• liquid hand sanitizer (I decided against it despite my mother’s protests, but I was kicking myself during training when we were getting sick all the time. Bring enough to get through training; at site you can install a handwashing station)
• a keeper or diva cup and pantiliners (if you’re a tampon gal, PC provides them for free)
• fingernail and toenail clippers
• hair doo-dads, if necessary (I’d love a headband as my hair grows out in every direction)
• lip gloss
• Dramamine!! If you can buy it here, I haven’t seen it. You may wish for it on Land Cruiser rides. We burned through our whole supply in the first two months.
• Prescriptions as necessary (PC will provide them but it will take awhile for the first batch)
• Your PC medical kit, which you should receive almost immediately upon arrival, will include sunscreen, floss, ibuprofin, aspirin, antacids, bandaids, and a ton of other supplies. PC definitely looks after you in the OTC medicine department, so don’t stress about it unless there’s something you can’t live without.

The view from the hill

If you hike up the hill by our house and look back, this is what you see. Our house is down there, but hidden by a tree. You can make out our family's roof in about the center of the frame.

Clothing advice for the new folks

Bring:

• T-shirts that remind you of home. You can easily all the thrift-store-rejects you could ever want at the markets, for cheap, maybe even one from your high school or your hometown 5K!
• Tank tops (not allowed during Pre-Service Training, but once you move to your site, villagers are not offended by skin above the waist)
• Jacket or sweatshirt (yes, it gets cold! Also useful as a pillow for camping)
• Skirts and trousers (Zambians reserve the word “pants” for underwear): capris would be nice. I wish I had brought my stretchy gauchos. Choose things that are comfortable for biking and presentable enough for meetings. Length for skirts must be past the knee or folks will think you're a hooley. And pockets are a must. I have worn my Macabi skirt for entire weeks. It is convertible for biking and has pockets you could use instead of suitcases. Zip-off pants: honestly, must you? Shorts are rare here, especially on women, though I rock knee-length ones in the village and don’t get stared at more than usual.
• PJ pants (I got them copied by local tailors in crazy Zambian fabric: fun!)
• Shorts for yoga or running, if necessary
• Rain jacket
• Sun hat (I brought a foldable one from the outdoors store and have worn it nearly every day), baseball cap
• Sport sandals, tennis shoes or trail shoes. You can buy flip-flops aka “tropicals” here for a buck or two, but other shoes are expensive or plastic crap. For me, it’s Tevas every day.
• Socks (Trevor swears by brown, which doesn’t show dirt)
• A ton of underwear. Handwashing plus the equitorial sun destroys fabric fast; also, you need to rest clothes three days after washing to avoid botflies, so bring at least a 10-day supply.
• Bandanas, the all-purpose accessory

Another biking shot

A few months ago, we biked to the tallest hill nearby and hiked a ways up it. In this picture, Trevor's on his way home from that adventure.

Packing advice for the new folks

I have read that the next batch of folks is getting invitations and preparing to come to Zambia, so I thought it was a good time to post the packing advice I have obsessed about off and on for months. I was going to post a link to a document, but I can't figure out how to do it, so it will be a series of blog posts for the next few days.

First: Almost anything is mailable or available in Lusaka, so there’s no need to freak out. You won’t have much time to hunt and gather during training, but afterwards you’ll have two years to fill your tiny hut with crap.

After you arrive in country, you will almost immediately get on transport with only a daypack for your first site visit. Then you will move to your host family with only the bare minimum of your stuff, while the rest lives in storage until you get posted to your site. If you remember this when you’re packing at home, it will save you a lot of angst rearranging your bags when you get here.

My advice is: go light on clothing, since basic shirts and trousers are easy to find here. When you arrive, you will realize how crazy it is to care about “outfits.” Save your luggage space for things that will make you happy. For me, that meant electronics, snacks, and craft supplies. It will be different for you.

When we arrived, PC loaded us down with twin sheets, a pillow, heavy blanket, mosquito net, soap, medical kit, water filter, notebooks, pens and huge piles of paperwork. Once we got our bikes, we received a helmet, bell, rack, water bottle with cage, lock, patch kit, pump and tool. You should get a brand-new bike with a pretty comfortable seat. Don't bring any of that stuff!

Hair

(Another rerun, with added photo and punctuation):
Trevor has gone to Chipata for a meeting.
No time for me to be lonely or bored, though. The minute he drove away,
the girls dragged me over and did my hair. A Princess Lea do only with
multiple buns.
(The hairdo was modeled on Elizabeth's, obviously. But clearly her hair has the texture necessary for this to work elegantly.)

Fabric shop

Did I mention I bought a little fabric before we came home?
This is one of the places where I stocked up. You point at what you want and the dude gets it for you. Well, the other dude does. This guy is the owner. Mostly he does what you see here: reads South African gossip magazines and waits for somebody to hand him money.

Commute

When we ride over the hill and see this, we know we're almost there. Our hut is on the right, halfway up the hill off in the distance. This is a normal amount of traffic for lunchtime on a hot day. It's busy early and late.

Pyramid scheme

I wish I could get bonus points from Peace Corps for recruiting. In addition to showing my pictures to dozens of impressionable young kids at my niece and nephew's school (though they liked the slingshot the most), I've been talking up the Peace Corps to every stranger I meet during this trip, from the lady who cut my hair to the hygenist at the dentist's office to the clerk at the bookstore. I want a patch or something if they join up because of me! Bonus points! A raise! Green stamps!

This afternoon I spent a good long time wandering around both the bookstore and the teacher store, getting kind of depressed by how many fantastic games, books and educational toys are available here, how very much they cost, and how unable I am to load them all up in my suitcase to take back to my deserving neighbors in Zambia. Boo hoo.

If anybody has used copies of any Eric Carle or Dr. Seuss books, especially One Fish Two Fish or Green Eggs and Ham, and wants to send them to Zambia, you might qualify for instant sainthood. (I'll check with the pope and get back to you.)

Church ladies

(Since we're on vacation, this episode is a rerun. Unlike a rerun, it includes photographic proof)
Unlike me, Trevor is never shy. Saturday when we rode past a church
choir practicing outside, Trevor thought he heard someone say stop. So
he did. I turned back to see him dancing along with them. We taught
them the only song I could recall from many years of church camp and
they offered us sweet beer. Joy joy joy down in my heart.

Building

Perhaps you remember the drama that surrounded the building of the third room on our house a few months back. Well, here are the pictures of that blessed event. That's Londolani and Anastasio laying bricks and putting grass on the roof.

Maize

Maize is a staple food in Zambia, as we have discussed.
This time of year, people are eating dried maize that requires lots of boiling. This happens in hand-built clay pots (as shown) snugged between burning logs. It looks appropriate for the Halloween season, eh?
(Q: Do they know it's Halloween? A: No.)

Nice to see you

Our hometown neighbor Emma brought a card to this afternoon's party that makes my hair tingle.

(Her mom helped me read it: "Nice to see you again, Trevor and Lisa.")

We got to know Emma when she bonded with our dog Lulu on Emma's walks around the 'hood with her mom and little brother. I would watch them walking by and think she was so cute in her tutus and blonde curls. Emma was terrified of Lulu at first (Lulu is a jumper, and she shows her teeth like she's about to bite your ankles when she is actually smiling with glee) but after awhile she always wanted to hold Lulu's leash when we stopped to talk.

We only chatted in the street until the day Emma asked to come in and see Lulu's bed. Her mom was horrified, but it was the start of a real friendship that transcended just being friendly neighbors.

It was nice to see them again.

Package

I was so impressed with the sheer volume of stuff Melba was able to cram into this package that I took a picture. Also, that Domino magazine ruled.
Not pictured: The Spiderman fruit strips we scarfed down before we even made it home from the post office.

Bike maintenance

Our chains get dusty. Also, we get a lot of flat tires.

Bathing

Our amai washes Emmanuel in a little tub on the porch every afternoon. Then she lotions him up to make him shiny. After he puts his clothes back on, he usually goes straight to the sand and rolls around for awhile.

He doesn't look happy in this picture, but really he doesn't mind when mom bathes him, though he screams bloody murder when the sisters do it.

Twisting

Remember how I taught the Musalilia folks how to play Twister?
Here's proof. Think they liked it?

Yippee

Our bags arrived. Hallelujah.

The drum we were carrying for a friend is soggy and got dropped and perhaps tossed about. Everything else is fine, including about twenty million yards of fabric, a slingshot for my dad, and several packages of Tasty Soya Chicken.

Running

We are home for a quick visit (yes, we're going back to Zambia, and no, nobody died). While we wait for our luggage to join us, we are swooning with joy and hugging many dear friends. Also, we are enjoying the effects of jet lag or maybe just our Zambia-formed habit of getting up at 5 a.m.

Yesterday we took advantage of the hour by going running. Cruising the darkened streets by foot seems to me like how a blind person sees a face by feeling the contours. I ran past our house, the library-- saying hello to my favorite yards.

We run around 5 a.m. in Zambia, too, but there it's to avoid the heat and to minimize the amount of people we have to greet. Even at 5 a.m., in Zambia the streets are teeming with ladies walking to the market with bundles on their heads, kids racing to school, and bicyclists toting unfortunate goats. Here, I passed one elderly man out for his morning stroll (and probably terrified him with my enthusiastic greeting), lots of people driving to work, and several bicyclists wearing helmets. We're used to being the only people in the nation with helmets, so I felt a certain kinship. It's great to be home.

This entry brought to you by the number Fourteeney

Emmanuel's new game is to repeatedly come and ask to borrow our three
Hot Wheels cars. He plays for a few minutes, brings them back, waits
five minutes, then asks for them again. Each time, he counts them:
"One, two, FIVE!"

Then he takes the cars and promises to bring them back. His favorite
is the convertible, though he tolerates the ambulance, which he simply
considers a truck.

His other favorite number is "fourteeney," inserted randomly, and with
feeling, in every sequence of numbers.

Travels with Elias

Elias said we were leaving for Chipata at 6 a.m., but the car wasn’t outside when we woke up at 5. At 5:20, Elias odied at the door to see if we were ready. Ten minutes later, Mr. Daka showed up with the car. I thought we might actually leave early.

Then we drove to town to Mr. Daka’s second wife’s house and waited for her to get ready, then into town for them to pump up the spare tire (which required emptying all the luggage out of the trunk), and to buy two liters of gas from some guys in another car. Then we all sat in the car for awhile. At one point, Mr. Daka leaned in the driver side window to pass in a handful of bubble gum and said a bunch of stuff that included the word “problem.”

Still, we left around 6:30. Then we turned around just outside town and came back because Elias had forgotten the engine he was supposed to take to Chipata.

We made it by 8:30.

Coffee break

I’ve been reluctant to say this because I love it so much, but we don’t need any more emergency coffee shipments at the moment, thanks to the bean love from many friends. According to my rough calculations, we’re good until mid-2009. If you were planning on sending me a birthday present, we may need coffee around May, but maybe by then we will have sourced a way to buy the coffee that allegedly grows in eastern Africa. We’ll keep you posted.

Up for debate

Further proof that many Zambians care more about American politics than your average American: Today in the village I’ve seen two guys who both got up at 2 a.m. to watch the U.S. presidential debate on satellite TV. How many of us ever watch debates, even when we don’t have to miss sleep?

It seems a shame that they don’t get to vote in our election, seeing as they actually care and all.

Singing in the shower

The other day I came home in a terrible mood. When I went to take a
shower, Trevor set up shop outside the shelter and serenaded me with
the Carole King song he'd been learning. If you've heard Trevor sing
you'll know why this made me laugh so hard I got water up my nose.

Name

Remember how Elias said i could name the puppies? I was thinking njala
and kaya, meaning hungry and i don't know. We were hanging out with
amai the other night and she asked me what i wanted to name the dogs.
I told her and she nodded politely. How about bingo? Ok, bingo. We
taught her the song and i suggested yahtzee for the other one. She
said fine and went home. A few minutes later she came back. How about
tiger?

Ok so i have officially named the dogs bingo and tiger. But i can
still call them njala and kaya. It will be our secret.

Twister

It's been quite the week for cross cultural exchange. I got to see
young kids practicing traditional fertility dances at school. Then
Yesterday i played twister with the musalila literacy class. I bribed
them into saying 'purple' by offering skittles. And taught them the
word of the day, toe. They thought they were called fingers and i
considered letting them continue thinking that because i found it
funny. And today the basket guy found us riding to town and i bought
more baskets somewhere between the foreigner and correct price.

Reading

Reading people magazine with my host sister turns out to be a bad
idea. Keep having to explain about britney spears mental illness, half
naked pictures in a culture where women don't even show their knees,
houses full of dishwashers and computers. Even her few books, she has
no context to understand for example why americans are obsessed with
kidnapping. But what would she relate to? Couldn't think of anything
until i remembered my own kid hood obsession with little house on the
prairie. Anybody has one on their bookshelf and wants to send it, i
will read it with deresia and let you know what she thinks. Would
welcome any book a new reader could grasp. I think the little kids
would dig dr. Suess. Let's spread the love of reading!

Roosters

American roosters say cock a doodle doo. Zambian roosters say happy
new year. Obviously they are not aware It's just october.

Trevor's job

Several people have asked what tre does. Officially he is an agro
forestry extension agent. I'm so much more, he says. Specifically he
is distributing seeds for multiplication, mentoring some kid
environment clubs, recording radio pieces and growing conservation
trees. Also he buys a lot of junk at the market, listens to jazz,
searches for stations on his world band radio and glues found pictures
into cast off books. Same old Trevor.

Monkeys

After hearing about them for months, i finally saw some of Chadiza's
famous monkeys. They were in the road, eating trash thrown by kids
walking home from school. They were the size of a five year old kid.
Gray with black faces. Long tails. I want one.

Wood

We were running low on sticks so i sent Trevor on a run this morning
while i was frying up banana pancakes. He came back with an entire
tree top. It's like i bought firewood at sam's, he told me.

Water

We used to wish for a borehole nearby. Now we're just glad they fixed
the one in chipanku, the next village over. Maybe those ladies will
stop draining our spring. This morning when we walked up with our
soapy clothes we could barely dip out enough muddy water to rinse
them. Clean isn't really an option here.

In other news i introduced junior to the can opener yesterday. He is
nine. It was my 'gods must be crazy' moment of the week.

Snake

We are never out after dark but somehow evening excitement finds us.
Last night the thrill was looking at the five foot long snake our host
dad's drunk brother killed outside our house. He claimed it was a
cobra though it was hard to make out any features by the time we saw
it.

Teaching

Yet again nobody showed for english class in musalila village. Still,
teaching opportunities abound. Yesterday i introduced my sister to
word seek puzzles. This afternoon we shared booty from a package with
an elderly friend of Trevor's. A spiderman fruit rollup. We had to
explain that you don't eat the paper, only the sweet part. He
proclaimed it very nice.

Cooking

The concrete in our new kitchen is finally dry so we are moving in.
I'm reading up on improved stoves. Friends in mo who are pro
sustainable livers sent books. We plan to build a rocket stove and
solar oven when we get some metal. Today i made a haybox of cardboard.
Foil and padded envelopes. A low tech crockpot to cook lunches as we
go through a liter of peanut butter a week and are sick of it.

In other news we learned today that soy milk goes funky just like
regular, complete with bulging carton. Also dogs scratch that spot on
their neck even if they never wear a collar. Fleas are universal.
Puppy belly must be especially delicious.

Hobby

If i could give any advice to incoming peace corps volunteers, it
would be to cultivate a portable hobby. You will spend more time than
you thought possible waiting for people and sitting in meetings you
don't understand. Having something to do is a sanity saver. Personally
I recommend knitting. I am halfway through my third pair of socks
since may. Just bring plenty of yarn.

Dinner

After eating the lunch i made myself plus shima with the family, i had
decided to forgo dinner and instead relax on the stoop with the kitty
and a cocktail. Around the time i was ready to put myself to bed,
Elias came to the door. Shima is all he said. So much for my plan.

Yes we have no

Lately there has been a mysterious banana shortage, so when i saw
ladies selling them by the post office i loaded up on more than i can
eat. An armload cost me 20 cents. The price suggests the scarcity is
over.

Still problems with the mail truck though. But i was shocked to see
their new computer. They want me to teach them to use it. Can internet
be far behind?

Missing Trevor

Since Trevor is still in Chadiza, the house is quiet. But being alone
gives me a chance to enjoy popcorn for dinner and hogging the bed.
Also i bought Trevor his own cell phone last week so we are texting
each other as if we were in junior high.

Busy

Now that i'm home from chipata, Trevor has gone there for a meeting.
No time for me to be lonely or bored though. The minute he drove away,
the girls dragged me over and did my hair. A princess lea do only with
multiple buns. I took pictures.

Today i rode over to zingalume school to talk about american education
at the 6 am teacher meeting. Later i will ride to town to help the
post guys with their new computer and visit the tailor. Or maybe i
will grab a puppy and enjoy a few moments of quiet.

Comments

One thing I forgot to mention when I explained the nuts & bolts is that even though I can't actually respond to comments due to my crap internet setup, I love them and read them more times than is probably mentally healthy, so feel free to comment. I'm responding on the inside.

Nuts & bolts

In case you’re a newish reader, I wanted to post a note about how this blog makes its way to the web. Unless I’m in town, which is rare these days, I compose entries on my cell phone. Then I email the posts to the blog using Gmail, when I can get enough bars on the phone for the message to go.

When we first arrived, I couldn’t read Gmails at all. Now, Yahoo won’t work on my cell phone but Gmail will. Go figure. If you send a comment, it will be forwarded to me automatically, and I can read it, but I can’t see your email address to write back to you. For that matter, I can’t see any email addresses to respond, so unless I have your email memorized or written on paper, I can’t send you a message. I know, it’s stupid and frustrating. But it’s better than nothing, right?

I do cherish the comments and emails I get, and try to respond eventually. Unfortunately, even in town I rely on the whims of dial-up internet and frequent power outages, so if it seems like your messages disappear into a black hole, they sort of do. Except that I appreciate them.

Excitement

I am home from chipata, where i had way too much fun watching movies,
baking pizza, staying up late. But that barely compares to coming home
to find a bush fire inches from our outhouse and its grass roof. Elias
put it out with what was supposed to be my bath water.

Clean?

There’s a joke that some people see the glass as half full, some half empty, and a PCV sees a glass of water and says, “I could take a bath in that.”

I’m at the Chipata house, where something is wrong with the hot water heater. When the stars align and the power and water are on at the same time, I heat water and take a bucket bath. I feel relatively clean. My white t-shirt, on the other hand, looks like I’ve been dusting the floor with it. White is a bad color for clothes in Zambia. It's sometimes dicey for skin, too, honestly.

Walk

I just finished A Walk Across America by Peter Jenkins, which was written in the 1970s but was a refreshing answer to Bill Bryson’s Lost Continent, which depressed and ticked me off.

Bryson judged America by truck stops and through the windshield of his car. Jenkins walked through rural America and met real people, who impressed him with their kindness and generosity, as human beings tend to do. “America had opened its heart and embraced me mile by mile, and family by family,” he writes.

I’m not opposed to well-reasoned and usually deserved America bashing, but I think my home country deserves a chance to show its good side. After all, I don’t want to be judged solely by my darkest moments.

Serendipity

If you're a regular blog reader, you'll know that last week I met a lady who works with PWAs who crochet to try and make a living, and I was hoping that eventually they could sell their stuff to rich white people traveling to the game parks nearby.

At yesterday's otherwise not that interesting meeting, one of the guys told me he was able to find a carpenter to produce wood crochet hooks for me, at a price of 2 pin each (about 75 cents). Furthermore, he was planning to bring me 10 today (he will have to settle for Trevor).

Today when I was trying to figure out how to hook into Chipata's wireless cloud (I know!! And it would cost me three months' salary! It ain't gonna happen!), in the internet-place waiting room I met a lady who works at a lodge at a game park. They have a gift shop! They are just getting started and would love to talk about selling crafts from the village! Here's her card!

It will all come together. Well, maybe not the internet thing. But all the other stuff.

Also, the ice cream parlor that was going to open in June? They have tables and a cooler now, and they're advertising for help. Things are looking good.

Ride

Today i had my quickest ride to chipata yet. Plus for half the way i
had a seat where hardly any of me was pressed into anyone else. And
the bus owner would not take money. He just wants me to bring him some
obama stuff when we visit the states.

Trevor and i both get practice in gracious receiving this week. While
i'm gone i suspect people will feed him as if he were starving, like
when i went to the navy ship a few years ago and he had so many
invites he stopped answering the phone.

We came as volunteers so It's easy to forget that we are also members
of the community. This means people want to care for us, not just take
our help. For us this is surprisingly hard.

Early

We have been setting the alarm a tiny bit earlier every day, in hopes
of finding a deserted road to run on and to see if we can wake up
before the family. But As of today, i give up. When i went outside to
pee at 3 30, our host parents were already awake for the day, working
by moonlight.

This explains why our host mom falls asleep right after dinner
whenever we eat over there.

Talking

Maybe because we have less people to talk to, in english anyway, we
seem to talk to ourselves more lately. I overheard Trevor yesterday
saying, what's this in my pocket? It's just my wallet, don't worry
about it.

I will get worried when he starts to argue with himself.

Mail

On a good week, The mail truck comes twice a week. With fuel shortages
this has been disrupted such that the truck has not made it out to
Chadiza in more than a week. I tell myself this increases the chance
we will receive something when it finally comes. Sigh.

Fresh start

Saturday Elias came home with two puppies. At first he tied them up
with wire under the chicken house but luckily seems to have decided
It's better to let them romp around like the puppies they are. They
like pancakes. He says i can name them.

Calling all crocheters

I have met a lady who is a working with women with aids to sell
crochet items so they can support their families. They do beautiful
work but need yarn. I am hoping to get them making animals they can
sell for a good price at the game park near here.

You crafters, if you need to unburden yourself of yarn, patterns
especially animals, or hooks, you stand to gain karma, warm fuzzies
and storage space. Ask at your post office about international prepaid
boxes. They seem the best deal. My address is at left. Thanks in
advance from the ladies of mangwe village.

Bush note

For villagers without cell phones, communication is often by bush
note, delivered by kids. Tuesday i got one from the village where i
work with the literacy group.

Dear lisa, i hope you are fine. Back to me just okey. Sorry my friend
people here have gone to zingalume school for meeting with plan. So we
have received a letter that all members with bees should attend. So
come on thursday. Yours in deep love elizabeth.

Shopping

In the village, we buy oil and cookies at a tuck shop, bananas and
tomatoes at the market, and we wait for the guys to come around on
their bikes with the rest. That's how we bought our reed mat and last
week brooms. I saw a guy the other day with a bike loaded in bamboo
chairs.

Today i was on my way to a meeting when the basket guy rolled up.
After intense negotiating between him and host mom, i bought two big
flat maize baskets and one that would be perfect for a picnic. Grand
total, eight pin. Less than three bucks. Even better, mom says she
told the guy i want to learn to make them. Traditionally It's man work
but she thinks they will teach me since i am a foreigner.

Plastic or plastic

I always laughed at the warnings on plastic bags. Who lets their kid
play with plastic bags?

I think of this because i just saw our cattle boy walk by wearing a
tribal looking headdress fashioned of grocery sacks. Without plastic
bags most zambian kids would have no toys at all. Definitely no soccer
balls. Just now junior is testing a spinny push toy made from wire and
oil cans. Their creativity amazes me.

Puzzling

Trevor says he will never be bored enough for chess or solitare. I am
not bored but lately have gotten into crossword puzzles. I am terrible
at the but find those little boxes maddeningly addictive. Is it
possible that i miss filling in forms? Pseudo thoughtful busywork?
Standardized tests? ,

Boo

If i am turning into my grandmother, tre is boo radley. We fretted
about what to do with junk too good to burn but too junky to give
away. After he broke his childhood compass, he stashed the cracked
shell in the crook of a tree. Within the hour the treasure had
disappeared.

Mother

They say women turn in to their mothers as they age. I think i am
becoming my grandmother. I have her chin and hope to inherit her
longevity. She's 97.

Living in the country and back in time has me obsessing over beets and
yeast rolls. I wish i had learned to pickle and can while grandma was
still cooking. She would laugh about my attempts to learn from a book.

Sand

It is remarkable how much sand you can pick up, simply by dumping a
tub of freshly washed laundry in the sand.

Trevor thought it was funny. We'll see if he is still laughing when he
is shaking grit out of his underwear all week.

God, i miss my washing machine.

Sunday paper

We had the perfect sunday. Long run in the morning, way too much
coffee, trading sections of the new york times. So what if it was a
month old? It is such luxury to revel in that great writing, the
quirky stories. It felt like a vacation, at least in our minds.

First the bad news

The sweet dog we called twinkie got run over saturday. Yes, on a road
that sees maybe ten cars a day. The driver left her sprawled in the
road. It looked like she was sleeping.

Elias says we will get two new dogs. There are plenty to spare. This
time i will not get attached.

Dog

We seem to have no luck with dogs here. Yesterday the sweet girl we
called twinkie got run over. The guy who did it just left her sprawled
in the road. I thought she was sleeping.

Our host dad says we will get two more dogs. There are plenty around
here. Next time i will not get attached.

Right.

Twisted

Today was the most successful language class yet in musalila, a
village up in the hills near here. I held a baby born friday and
taught some ladies right and left, hand and foot by playing twister. I
laughed until i felt kind of queasy. In other news, tre gave up sugar
this morning. After lunch he decided he would feel better if he had a
cookie or three. Seemed to help his general outlook.

Busted

Small dried fishies cost more than big ones. As i established this,
the nearby lady who sells beans told another lady, she isn't going to
eat those. They are for her dog. The other lady asked me, is that
true? I had to admit it. Except It's the dog and cat both. This caused
a mild scandal in the market. I am proud that i can have this
conversation in a language i had never even heard of six months ago.

Gifts

Several people have sent things for our host family. I wish you could
be here to see the joy your gifts bring. But we are learning that gift
giving is complicated here. Anything we give directly to the kids,
aside from sweeties, evaporates into the sand. And jealousy causes
conflict. So we hand gifts over to mom and dad for distribution. I
gave mom a package intended for elizabeth. Mom and the big kids tried
out the jump rope. She folded away the dress for eliz. The sparkle
flip flops took a cinderella trip through the family before finding a
fit with junior, the middle son. He is thrilled to own shoes. Around
dinner he skipped over to ask me to read the label. Fittingly, it is
xhiliration.

Stuff

Our latest round of mail ran the spectrum of contents, from fancy
health food snacks to junk drawer flotsam and leftover holiday gifts.
While we love and admire the folks who shop carefully, the junk
senders are nearest my heart, since That's exactly what i would do.

My parents sent a much needed replacement headlamp. They have also
been sending our mail along with the food we dumped at their house
when we moved. Every box also contains random tea bags and candy from
distant holidays.

Tre's old roommate Kerrie sent a trove of vegetarian delight and
filled the box's air spaces with mini toothpaste tubes to counter the
candy, and take out ketchup packs. I am so impressed. And hoping she
fills up her purse with mild sauce next time she goes to taco bell.

Mail call

For the record, i am grateful i can email from a cell phone in rural
zambia. So what if there is the occasional glitch, like being unable
to access my address book or in any way find contact information, the
important thing is that we got a fat mail haul today and my parents,
john and gennie. Kerrie, and the ultimate mail goddess lea should
watch their mailboxes for love from zambia. I just posted a batch of
letters after the last blitz. We are getting to be pals with the post
guys. They love our old economists and newsweeks. I love their little
green package slips.

Small town

We may as well be in the midwest again. Our host dad bought a small
truck, so sunday afternoon every guy in town stopped by to help him
fix it. A dozen kids watched. When it was finally running, all the
kids piled in back for a ride. I spent many summer afternoons in the
back of a pickup truck. Trevor remembers hanging out with the guys,
listening to cardinals games on a transistor radio. All That's missing
here is budweiser.

Cowpea sausages

Several of you have asked about the Cowpea sausages. They took all
freaking day to make. First you boil the peas, then chat with the
ladies while peeling off the skins or bags as they are called here.
That was the long part. Then you pound them along with oil, tomato
powder, garlic, salt. Form into hot dog shapes and fry, saving the oil
for later frying. Then take the sausages home and cook them in sauce.
We ate ours with mustard. They were delicious but not enough for me to
do the work at home. Who has all day.

Hot

When we left for our training in Lusaka it was cold enough that we
wore socks at night and slept under a down comforter. While we were
gone it got hot. We have spent the past few afternoons hiding from the
sun in our hut. The good thing is our bath water heats up in the sun
almost instantly. So much so that we dilute it with cold. Today trevor
hiked a hill with our neighbor koh. They report that the cold beers
afterward tasted especially good.

Food

Amid talk of world hunger these days we have our own private food
crisis in Chadiza. The family already eats shima for every meal and
there is still plenty of corn but they alternate relishes, the veg mix
you pick up with the shima. Until this week, that is, when goats got
in the garden and ate all the pumpkin leaves. Host mom complained that
she doesn't feel like eating since It's rape yet again.
At least this answers my question of whether Zambians get sick of the
same food every day.

Funeral

Several people have emailed with concern about how the death of Zambia's president will affect political stability.

We don't know, though of course people assume that the transition will be stable, as Zambians are peaceful people. They achieved independence without bloodshed, so we're hoping elections will be smooth. Of course, that's what they thought in Kenya, too.

We got to witness history Saturday, when our taxi was diverted by a roadblock as we passed by the site of the funeral. Mourners lined the streets to pay tribute to the procession. 

Happy happy!

If you see my grandma, wish her a happy birthday! She turns 97 today. 

Lamely, I forgot to send her a card, though I've been aware of her birthday every day for weeks. (Mostly hoping that I have inherited her longevity. I definitely got the family chin.)

I wish I had a great picture of her to post, as there are many since she is so darned cute, but I'm using somebody else's computer. We're staying with expats in Lusaka, soaking up their satellite TV, chowing down on real Ritz crackers from the USA, and even reading a People magazine that is still on American newstands. It's going to be surreal to go back to the village tomorrow. 

Sigh.

Even gmail is now wonky. Supposedly it's because the cell phone company has been bought. For whatever reason, we haven't been able to check email from the phone lately. Fingers crossed that all will be resolved soon.

Counterpart

We've just finished a week of in-service training that marks the end of our community entry period, our first three months at site. The training included two days of project-development in conjunction with our village counterparts. We learned things like how to make a Problem Tree. Even if they didn't learn anything, our partners from the adult literacy project were thrilled to be invited to Lusaka by Peace Corps. The workshop was a validation of our working relationship that I think will jumpstart a burst of activity when we return to the village. 

We learned about the importance of allowing projects to be driven by community interests. My counterpart, Art, admired the Zambian handbags carried by many PCVs. He thinks we should start a sewing workshop as an income-generating activity in our village.

This is an idea I can support with enthusiasm.

Ist

We have come back to lusaka for more pc training. It's time to get
serious about the projects we will tackle over the next two years.
Also It's a chance to catch up with our group. Unless they are in our
province, folks may as well live on mars. We are spread far and wide
across a country with two barely paved roads.
People seem happy. Deep tans and scruffy hair. There seems to be a
general sense of calm now that we have settled into our own village
routines.

Monkey hut

Across the road from our house is this hill, with cornfields and a hut for guarding the corn harvest against marauding baboons.

Lunch

Occasionally we eat at one of the restaurants in town. This one is called Country Kitchen. I asked for soya pieces, which they didn't have, so I went next door and bought a package. Then the cook took me into the kitchen so I could show her how to prepare them.

Literacy

Several weeks ago, I took a tour of local literacy classes. This one meets outside a local village. They don't have much in the way of supplies, as you can see.

Trevor and Elias

Elias is our host father. He is always running around Chadiza. One of his many projects is building a shop in town where he plans to sell "many small things."

Cowpea Sausages

 

I learned how to make cowpea sausages the other day with one of the volunteer literacy teachers. The best part was hanging out in her house and chatting all morning.

Indian food! And more

We are still reeling in a sugar and info coma following yesterday's
historic mail haul, which included every possible flavor of fruit
leather, indian food, and vanity fairs. This batch of mail includes
the prize for most unexpected correspondant, my friend heather's mom
vickie, who i have not seen since heather's wedding, two kids ago. Hi
vickie! Thanks! Everyone else, personal shout outs to come when i get
to chipata. Hopefully tomorrow.

--
travelswithtrevor.blogspot.com

Brush

Last weekend the carpenter finished our new shelves. To protect them
from the termites that eat our walls and wood we bought varnish.
Elias wandered up while i smeared it around with a corn cob. He rooted
under the chicken house for a minute and emerged with feathers he tied
with a piece of string from a mealie meal sack. African paint brush he
told me. It worked much better than the corncob.

--
travelswithtrevor.blogspot.com

Shy

Unlike me, Trevor is never shy. Saturday when we rode past a church
choir practicing outside, Trevor thought he heard someone say stop. So
he did. I turned back to see him dancing along with them. We taught
them the only song i could recall from many years of church camp and
they offered us sweet beer. Joy joy joy down in my heart.

--
travelswithtrevor.blogspot.com

Emmanuel

Our youngest host brother, Emmanuel. He is four years old and loves to eat sugar cane and to play with cars, though he quickly loses them in the sand. He also loves drawing. Loves: soccer/football, drawing, cars, sugar cane. Hates: cold baths.

Music in the air

There is a fundraiser going on at the Jehovah’s Witness church that we pass on our way into town. There have been crowds there this week, and groups of women are riding around on the back of flatbed trucks drumming up business by singing. I love the joyous acapella harmonies that float into the air.

Holiday spirit

Christmas spirit is in full force in Chadiza, maybe because it’s still chilly in the mornings. This morning on my ride to town, I passed a woman wearing a santa hat. By the post office, I saw a lady wearing a Twelve Days of Christmas sweatshirt. Do they know it’s Christmas, indeed.

Classy

In attendance at the inaugural literacy class: five adult students, three babies, five children watching from a safe distance, one herd of cows tramping through the assembled students. One of the cows wandered into the classroom building we were sitting outside, giving me a rare opportunity to make a funny in the local language: “The cow wants to study.”

During class, there was lots of laughter (not just at my joke), seemingly because people though it was so hilarious to hear English coming out of their own mouths.

Get about

Many grateful thanks to Trevor's former colleagues, whose packet of
coffee and tshirt has got about the globe into our greedy paws. Trevor
is composing a letter that will take its sweet time making its way to
you. Thanks!

Socks

I am unusually busy this week with teacher meetings that start with
typical Zambian punctuality. The good thing is this gives me lots of
time to knit. The bad thing is i don't have enough padding on my butt
to sit in a wood chair all morning.

World meats

Trevor had another culinary first yesterday when he tasted impala.
Since impalas look like deer he expected it to taste like venison, but
it reminded him of beef.
I did not try the meat. I did still have one of those wow i live in
africa moments though riding my bike on a bush path to a literacy club
meeting at a nearby village. The only sign of human inhabitation was
the dirt path marked with footprints and bike tire treads. Being so
far from so called civilization would have freaked me out recently.
But i knew exactly where i was. And that i was surrounded by people,
even if it seemed like i was alone. It feels very normal here. That is
amazing to me.

Bel

I just finished reading Ann Patchett’s book Bel Canto, about birthday party guests who get taken hostage by terrorists. Lately it seems like every book I read relates to my Peace Corps service, but this one did especially.

Even though we are, after all, volunteers, I think every one of us goes through bouts of feeling held hostage, of serving out a sentence, of “us” versus “them.” Opera plays a big role in the book, and while I am not an opera fan, I agree that music grounds us in time and place. When I am listening to or making music, I am here and now. Like when I ride past the church and hear the drifting harmony.

Happy farmers day!

We celebrated by cursing our cell reception and taking a bike ride to
the nearby big hill. We left our bikes with a family shelling beans
and hiked up up up. Great views even though we didn't hit the top.
After we snapped digital photos of the family and showed them. Thrills
and giggles all around.

Spy

At tutoring today art told us that some people think we peace corps
volunteers are spies. Trevor told him that we are. We live out in the
bush so we can keep an eye on their corn. Personally, i would rather
spy on pigs. They are much more entertaining. They wag their tails
just like fat little puppies. Alas they also eat poo.